Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and tourists alike swearing by its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, UNESCO recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a select roster of global cities and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it becomes part of a global network of more than four hundred cities across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "stands as proof of its deep-rooted food heritage and lively culinary scene," according to a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of seventy urban centers around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this historic city arrives as hardly a shock to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, bustling, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is finally in the spotlight for what has consistently defined its soul: an immense devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a constant dialogue from waking up until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and taken to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of gastronomic creativity, blending Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was invented to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates fresh harvests but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – lesser-known gems that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a unpretentious joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and demanding. The cook whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though say that their children are reluctant to learn the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will motivate more people worldwide to discover these tales and travel to the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
